recipe
Black dhal
Dhal (also spelt dal, daal or dahl) refers to either a dried lentil, bean or pea – sometimes split, sometimes whole – or to a dish made from any of these. It’s a small word that covers a multitude.
Originating in India, dhal has proliferated all over South-East Asia and anywhere you find an Indian diaspora. There are countless versions: vegetarian, meat-based and made with any number of pulses. It would be fun to try making as many as you can find.
Beyond the diaspora, dhal has a bad reputation as a soggy, one-note dish – which in the wrong hands it can be. I blame this in part on the fact that many people don’t understand how much salt dried pulses need to shine – and on bad cooking.
In Sri Lanka, the dish of dhal is referred to as a lentil curry, or called by its Sinhalese name, parippu. Whatever the ethnicity, it is a staple of the island, made in a similar manner all over with red lentils. This is the version I serve at Lankan Filling Station and the one I was first taught by my mum. Simple, vegan, healthy and delicious, it’s a bowl of warm comfort – and the dish my partner most requests that I bring home (which I’ve been forgetting to do for years).
After parippu, my next favourite dhal is a black one. I am partial to adding kidney beans, but I also love dal makhani, which is a modern version made with butter and cream. It is rich and delicious – and less healthy.
My head chef put the dal makhani on the specials menu at LFS one night when I was working in the kitchen, and a table ordered only that and the parippu. While I was disappointed they didn’t try more of the menu, I was also quietly impressed by the simplicity of their order and their desire to try them side by side. (They said our traditional parippu was better, but I do believe there’s a dhal for every moment.)
This recipe is based on that dish. The first thing you need to know is that black urud lentils can vary in cooking time by several hours, so be prepared. This version also includes tempering some of the aromatics mid lentil cook. This is a handy technique used in Indian and Sri Lankan cooking that involves frying spices and suchlike as a way to boost flavour. I have added some tamarind at the end for a little sourness to balance the ghee and coconut cream. Go wild, as I have, and try many versions until you find the one that suits you best.
Time: 2 hours preparation and cooking
Serves 6–8
- 400g black urud dhal
- 120g ghee
- 16g garlic (about 4 cloves)
- 12g ginger (about equal in mass to the garlic)
- 3g curry leaves (about 3 sprigs)
- ½ tsp curry powder
- ½ tsp chilli powder
- 30g tomato puree
- salt
- 30g tamarind pulp
- 120g coconut cream
- Wash the lentils and place them in a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover very generously. Bring to a boil and then simmer gently until the lentils are cooked through and just starting to fall apart (about an hour). Strain.
- Place a heavy-based saucepan, large enough to hold the lentils, over a medium heat, warm and then add in the ghee. Once the ghee has melted add the garlic, ginger and curry leaves and cook until the leaves start to crisp (about two minutes). Add the curry and chilli powders and the tomato paste and stir, cooking for a minute.
- Add in the lentils and stir well. The mix should look a little pasty. Season with a generous amount of salt. Add enough water to just cover the lentils, turn the heat up so the mix comes to a boil and then reduce so it’s just ticking over. Cook in this very gentle manner for another hour, stirring occasionally as it may stick.
- Meanwhile, break up your tamarind pulp, place in a heatproof bowl and pour over 70 millilitres of boiling water. Use a fork to mash it up and then set aside.
- Press your tamarind pulp through a fine strainer and add this to the lentils along with the coconut cream. Stir well, adjust seasoning and cook for a final 10 minutes.
- Serve alongside a rice and curry meal, or eat a bowl immediately for warmth and comfort.
This article was first published in the print edition of The Saturday Paper on June 28, 2025 as "Feel the pulse".
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